Trapunto: The Next Step

This post is definitely way over-due but I won't make it worse by offering excuses.

At the end of my last post I offered these instructions: When the designs are completed, layer the quilt top with backing and batting. To quilt the trapunto, quilt along the lines that have been stitched with the contrasting thread. I find that the easiest way to do this is to make a few stitches on top of the contrasting thread then remove the contrasting thread, then repeat. You could remove some of the contrasting stitches first and then use the needle holes in the fabric as your guide as to where to stitch. Find what works best for you.

I've started quilting the trapunto and this is what it looks like finished (okay, I've only done one quarter of the quilt - it takes time!):





What I've learnt along the way:

1. Stitch holes would disappear before I had a chance to quilt therefore I needed to find an easier way to quilt around the padded shape. These are the two options that I'd recommend: either use a washable marker pen to mark the quilting line and then remove several of the larger tacking stitches first before quilting; or, quilt as close to but not on top of the tacking stitches and remove the stitches later.

2. If choosing the second option - and I did - then you will have to carefully remove all the stitches after you have finished quilting. This is easy if you have a sharp pair of embroidery scissors, good light, a pair of tweezers, and good eyes. It doesn't take long and is worth the effort.

Wouldn't you agree?

Happy Quilting!

Trapunto

Trapunto refers to the technique of stitching a design and stuffing it to create a padded, sculptural effect. It tends to look best on a plain background where there is quite a bit of 'bare' space.

These are my instructions for doing it by hand. I don't have step-by-step photos but hopefully the instructions will be clear enough. Email me for further clarification if necessary.

You will need:

completed quilt top, at the stage of being ready to quilt
erasable fabric pen
lightweight fabric such as voile or thin muslin
scraps of batting
sewing notions

1. Choose a design for the trapunto and trace it onto your quilt top. Alternately you can reverse the design and trace it onto your lightweight fabric.

2. Tack the lightweight fabric to the back of the quilt top behind where the design is to go.

3. Using a contrasting thread (but not too dark a thread on light fabric - I used yellow thread which is why it doesn't show up particularly well in the photos) sew a running stitch on all the lines of the design. These stitches do not need to be as small as your usual quilting stitch as they will be removed later.

When you have sewn all the lines, remove the tacking stitches and trim the lightweight fabric to reduce bulk. Your quilt top should look something like this on the reverse side:



4. Carefully cut slits into the lightweight fabric and push small amounts of wadding into each shape that is to be padded. Don't over stuff the work as this will result in distortion and puckering.





When you have finished filling the design area with wadding, whip stitch closed the slits. The front of your quilt should look something like this:



5. When the designs are completed, layer the quilt top with backing and batting. To quilt the trapunto, quilt along the lines that have been stitched with the contrasting thread. I find that the easiest way to do this is to make a few stitches on top of the contrasting thread then remove the contrasting thread, then repeat. You could remove some of the contrasting stitches first and then use the needle holes in the fabric as your guide as to where to stitch. Find what works best for you.

Happy Quilting!

Step-By-Step Project: Part 3

Before we start: when sewing binding to the quilt top ensure that the backing fabric has not became caught under the layers. It's easy for this to happen and not to be discovered until after you have removed the quilt from the machine. So be warned!

Step Eleven: Making the Binding
I cut strips 2.5"/6cm wide on the straight grain and joined them together with a 45 degree angle. I usually prefer to use strips cut on the bias but for this project I had long narrow strips left-over from the backing fabric, and chose to make use of them rather than purchasing another fabric for the binding.



After cutting and joining the strips, fold in half with wrong sides together and press. This binding will be used double throughout as I believe that double binding - also known as 'French binding' - gives a more durable finish.



Step Twelve: Applying the Binding
I'm going to go step-by-step through my preferred method of applying binding. The first time I used bias binding on a quilt I was terrified! I am not a skilled seamstress and the thought of sewing something so narrow to the edge of a quilt was rather daunting, to say the least. However after trying it, I've never looked back. I've experimented with a few methods and this is my favourite and gives best results. So on to more steps:

Step 12a: Open up one end of the binding and fold over a hem on the end of the binding. Press or pin.



Step 12b: Line binding up to edge of quilt, and start sewing. After 3-4" stop, and without removing the quilt from the machine, fold over the binding and continue sewing. This will create a 'pocket' that you will use later. This is the easiest method I have ever found of joining binding - but I'm getting ahead of myself.





Step 12c: Before reaching the corner, mark with a pin where the two sewing lines will be expected to intersect. If you're maintaining a 1/4" seam allowance then this point should be 1/4" from both raw edges.



Sew up to the pin then do a few back stitches. Remove the quilt from the machine.



Step 12d: Measure from the point that the sewing stops to the doubled edge of the binding (not the raw edges).



In line with the existing sewing line, mark this exact distance with a pin from where the sewing stopped.



Move the fabric so that this pin then sits directly next to the pin marking the intersection of the two sewing line (the first pin) or if you've removed the pin, where the sewing stops.



Turn the quilt and start sewing the binding to the quilt from this second pin.



Continue to do all corners in this way.

Step 12e: When nearing the point where binding begins, trim binding so that it is several inches longer than needed to join. It's better to have too much than not enough.



Sew almost up to where the binding begins. Tuck the edge of the binding into the 'pocket' that you made at the start when the binding began. You may need to trim some more binding if it's too long, but be careful. You don't want to mess up now when you're so close to finishing.



Step 12f: Sew along the edge of the binding, overlapping for a few inches where you began.



There! You did it!

Step Thirteen: Trimming
Remove the quilt from the machine and trim excess backing and batting fabric away.





You're almost done!

Step Fourteen: Hand Sewing Binding to Quilt
Turn the quilt over and hand sew the binding to the quilt back using a thread that matches the binding (I often use stranded embroidery cotton or quilting cotton - whatever colour matches). Line up the folded edge to the sewing line and stitch into place. You will also need to stitch closed the 'pocket' where the binding joined. I like to start here and then continue around the quilt.





Pat yourself on the back: you have just created a beautiful quilt. Label your quilt and enjoy!

The finished quilt from the front:



And from the back:



And other similar quilts:







Happy Quilting!

Step-By-Step Project Part 2

Step Eight: It's Time To Iron
If you haven't already ironed the backing fabric, do it now. The quilt top must also be carefully pressed. This is the last time either will be ironed so do a good job.

Step Nine: Lay Out Backing, Batting and Top
The backing fabric and the batting should be about 2" larger than the quilt top all round. Lay the backing down first, wrong side up, then smooth the batting over the top, then finally add the top, right side up.

Pin, pin, and pin.



If you plan on hand quilting then you will probably want to baste the quilt. For machine quilting, many prefer to use safety pins. I just left the pins in but be warned you will get pricked - lots! - if you machine quilt this way.

Step Ten: Quilt
I quilted in the ditch around the star, the windmill, and the borders. Machine quilting is not my area of expertise so I recommend visiting other sites if you need more information.



To secure the fabrics, I sew a few tiny back stitches at the beginning and the end of the quilting and then snip off the thread close to the stitching. This works for me and I don't think I've ever had any come undone, despite repeated use.

For this quilt I used ordinary white sewing thread. Some like to use an invisible thread on top but I've found it breaks easily - even after the quilt is finished. I've been told that loosening the machine's tension will prevent this but I'm afraid to adjust the tension on my old machine.

You can chose one colour for the top thread and another colour to match the backing for the bobbin thread. White worked well for this quilt and blended sufficiently into the background of the backing fabric for my tastes. But experiment and do what suits you.





Tip: When machine sewing you will need to roll up sections of the quilt to fit under the arm of the machine.

Once you're satisfied with the quilting, remove all pins or basting thread and prepare for the next step: finishing your quilt.

Happy Quilting!

Step-By-Step Project Part 1

I know that I still haven't posted the steps for finishing your quilt, but I intend to cover that in this project, as well as do a more complete post at a later date.

This project was a quilt that I made for my granddaughter. I wanted something quick and easy, that could be snuggled under on cold nights, dragged around the house, draped over chairs to make hiding places, and above all, durable and machine-washable. I achieved it, but I was disappointed with my fabric choices. But more about that later.

The finished size of this quilt is approximately 130 x 160 cm (51 x 63"). Fabric requirements (based on fabric 90cm/36" wide) are as follows:

Fabric 1: 2.25m / 2-1/3yd
Fabric 2: 0.9m / 1yd
Fabric 3: 0.6m / 2/3 yd
Fabric 4: 0.6m / 2/3yd
Fabric 5 (for backing and binding): 2.7m / 3yd

These fabric quantities are quite generous to allow for errors in cutting or piecing or for experimentation with arrangements.

Step One: Assemble Fabrics
I used brushed cotton (also known as 'flannelette' - the kind used for children's pyjamas) for the top and a printed cotton drill for the backing. These were inexpensive since I didn't want to spend a lot of money on a quilt that wasn't going to be a family heirloom. However I didn't have a lot of choice when it came to choosing colours and the resulting quilt is lacking in that 'wow' factor (in fact it looks anaemic!). Next time I would try to include some darker and/or brighter fabrics.

The backing I chose because my granddaughter loves dogs. She can't go to sleep unless she has several - the more the better! - soft dog toys in bed with her. With this quilt, she'll always have dogs at bed time.

Wash and iron all fabrics before using.



Step Two: Cut Fabric
I cut my fabric into squares 8" x 8" (approx 20cm x 20cm). I chose this size simply because I had a square rule this size. You could use any size and in fact I will show photos later of quilts made using much larger squares. The larger the squares, the less sewing - something to consider if you want a quick-thrown-together quilt.

I used a rotary cutter to reduce cutting time but you could use scissors. It will just take longer. For this quilt I cut 6 squares from each of the 4 fabrics - 24 squares in total.



Once all the squares have been cut, cut across the squares on the diagonal to give 48 triangles.



Step Three: Sew Triangles Together
Take 2 triangles, each a different fabric, and sew together being careful not to stretch the bias edge. Sew one after the other - called 'chain piecing' - you cut the thread between them once all triangles are sewn together.



Open triangles up and finger press. Trim 'ears' (those little corners on the triangles that stick out when you have your square sewn).



Step Four: Lay Sewn Pieces Out
Decide on a pleasing arrangement. I chose a star with a windmill as its centre in the middle of my quilt with a zigzag effect at each end. Experiment and see what you come up with. This is meant to be fun!



Step Five: Sew Squares Together
Once you've decided on your arrangement, sew the squares together into rows then sew the rows together until you have the centre of your quilt.



Be sure to match seams when sewing rows together unless you want a misaligned quilt top.



Step Six: Add Borders
I'm afraid I don't have photos for all these steps but hopefully they're simple enough that written directions will suffice.

Always - and I'll say it again, ALWAYS - measure borders across the centre of the quilt. This prevents wavy borders.





For the first border, I cut strips 2.5"/7cm wide from the blue fabric and sewed them to all four sides. Then I made the second border by cutting strips of the four fabrics 6"/15cm wide, cutting each strip into random lengths, and then joining them randomly. Finally, the third border was made from fabric strips 4.5"/12cm wide.

Step Seven: Backing
I had to join the backing fabric to give required size. In the photo it shows the selvage still attached. This is because I used it as a guide to run the sewing machine foot against, and then trimmed it off later. You can trim it off first then sew a 1/4" seam, or you can do it the way I've shown. I just find this easier when joining long lengths of fabric but it may shock sewing purists!



And the quilt ready for the next steps:



Happy Quilting!

Caring for Quilts

I realise that this post is perhaps out of order considering I haven't yet gone through the steps for finishing your quilt but that post will be coming and hopefully not too far in the distant future. Meanwhile here are my tips for caring for your quilt. After all your hard work you want it to last!

Please note that heirloom or fragile quilts require careful handling. Seek expert advice on caring for such a quilt. These notes are intended for new quilts made from new and sturdy fabrics.

CARE AND CONSERVATION OF QUILTS
Enemies of quilts include light, dirt, heat and damp, and the acid in wood. Shield quilts from direct light and heat, dust, damp, cigarette smoke and aerosol sprays. Quilts in sunny rooms should be placed on walls where the sun doesn’t reach or the curtains should be kept closed (I know, I know – we’re talking about homes here not museums but be aware that quilts that receive several hours of daylight each day will fade and deteriorate over time).

Quilts should not be placed directly on wood or paper containing acids. For this reason use acid-free paper when storing quilts and seal the wood (with paint, varnish, or polyurethane) when displaying quilts on wooden frames, racks, shelves, etc. If possible, place several sheets of acid-free paper between the quilt and the wood (just to be sure). Or do what I've done and carefully tack an old sheet to the back of the quilt so that the sheet comes in contact with the wood and not the quilt.

CLEANING QUILTS
There are several ways to clean a quilt depending on the stain or amount of soiling, the size of the quilt, the fabrics used (some fabrics are too fragile to wash often) and personal choice.

Often quilts can be freshened with an airing or small stains removed with spot cleaning. The less a quilt is laundered the longer its life.

Dry cleaning is not recommended for quilts since it can leave behind harmful chemical residues that will over time cause the breakdown of the fibres of the fabric. Sometimes spot cleaning (warm soapy water and a cloth or holding the quilt over the sink and pouring boiling water over the spot) will be sufficient to remove small stains. Always try these methods first before washing. Of course, if your granddaughter has had an accident all over her parents’ queen-sized cream-coloured quilt (yes it really did happen!) it will have to be washed, but in other instances airing or spot cleaning may suffice.

Airing or vacuuming or a firm but gentle shake is often all that’s required for wall quilts which tend to collect dust but otherwise remain free of body oils (unless someone’s always leaning against the quilt or running their fingers over it).

Airing: Choose a breezy overcast day when humidity is low. Lay quilts on towels or sheets on the grass or over a railing then lay the quilt on top. Cover with another sheet to protect from sunlight (and pets, birds and insects).

Quilts can also be placed on sheets on damp dewy grass, covered with another sheet and allowed to air for several hours. The quilt will take up some of the dampness from the grass which will assist in cleaning the quilt and removing odors. Leave until dry. (Yes, it actually does work!)

Vacuuming: Vacuum on low suction with the hose covered with pantyhose to remove dust (just remember it’s a quilt you’re vacuuming and not a heavy-duty carpet).

Washing: Use a mild soap (e.g. “Ensure” or “Orvis Paste” are often recommended but since I’ve never seen them in the shops down here I have no idea what they’re like – I usually use a gentle detergent designed for washing woolen garments).

If in doubt as to the colorfastness of the quilt to be washed, soak a corner of the quilt in lukewarm water for 30 minutes. If the water stays clear then the dyes are not likely to run or bleed when the quilt is washed. If there is any bleeding of dye, do not wash but instead use another method to clean (such as airing).

If your washing machine is large then the easiest and safest place to wash your quilt is in your machine. Otherwise quilts can be soaked in the bath but since wet quilts are extremely heavy, this places a heavy load on wet fibres and can weaken them further (those of us with long hair know how gentle we need to be with our hair when it’s wet – it’s the same concept!).

Using a washing machine: Small quilts can be washed in cold or lukewarm water on the machine’s most gentle cycle then dried lying flat (or if the piece isn’t too ‘precious’ hung over a rail – my timber fireguard is good for this as the top bar is wide enough that it doesn’t leave creases as the quilt dries. Quilts that are purely utility quilts and not ‘for show’ I’ll dry on the line – but don’t do this if your quilt is ‘irreplaceable’ and you would be upset if it were to become damaged).

For larger quilts: If your machine has a center agitator, place the quilt in the machine, fill to the top with cold or lukewarm water and let the quilt soak for 5-10 minutes. After soaking, gently move the quilt around with your hands. If the water becomes very dirty, repeat using clean water and more cleansing agent, using the machine’s gentle spin cycle to remove water between steps. Fill the machine with cold water and using the procedure above (i.e. moving quilt around with your hands) rinse the quilt. Rinse until water is clear. Use a gentle cycle to spin out the water. If your machine doesn’t have a gentle option, remove the quilt and press the quilt between towels to remove as much water as possible.

I’ve recently bought a new machine that has a ‘low profile’ agitator, i.e. the agitator is in the bottom of the machine and not up through the center. I wash large quilts in the machine (including a to-the-floor-queen-sized-quilt) using a gentle cycle. It does a great job cleaning the quilt and is extremely gentle. I choose to override the feature that determines the water level and program the machine to fill to the top so that there’s plenty of water for the quilt to move around in.

If your quilt is too large for your washing machine then you can wash it in the bath. Fill the bath with cold or lukewarm water and allow the quilt to soak for 15 minutes. Rinse repeatedly to remove the soap. Squeeze as much water out as possible without twisting or wringing. Find someone else to help you, and together remove the quilt from the water, being sure to support its weight. Lay the quilt between two layers of towels and roll up to remove as much water as possible.

DRYING QUILTS
Dry quilts lying flat away from sun. You can dry quilts inside or outside but remember to first protect the quilt from pets (i.e. cover it unless you want to have to wash your quilt again) and possible grass stains if laying the quilt on the ground. When the quilt is almost dry you can finish it off in a cool dryer. Never put a sopping wet quilt in a dryer. The heat and action of the dryer will damage the fabric fibres. I like to place a large old acrylic blanket (not wool – it would become damp and smelly) on the floor in our games room and place the quilt on that with windows open but curtains closed. It may take several days for a quilt to dry thoroughly so you may need to bring a quilt inside at night or find somewhere to lay it where the rest of the family won’t walk on it!

Small quilts – including lap quilts – I often hang on a line or over a chair or fire rail. Don’t do this with a large quilt as the water in the quilt makes it extremely heavy and stresses the fabric fibres.

STORING QUILTS
Never ever – this is crucial so I’ll say it again – never ever - store quilts in plastic bags. They need to breathe and plastic bags trap and encourage moisture and thus mildew. Instead roll the quilt up and place inside a cotton pillowcase or in acid-free tissue paper, or roll around a tube that has been covered with a cotton sheet. If the quilt must be folded to be stored then place several sheets of acid-free paper between the folds to prevent creasing and every few months take the quilts out and re-fold differently to prevent permanent creases along fold lines. It is also advisable to fold the right side of a quilt to the inside so that the backing is exposed.

Store quilts in a cool, dry place. Some people like to store theirs under beds. In general, basements and attics and garages are not good places to store quilts due to extreme changes in temperature.

Regularly check all quilts for damage or insects or stains. This includes quilts that are stored as well as those in use. Regularly rotating quilts on display and in use preserves their life. Hanging quilts should be taken down occasionally and allowed to ‘relax’. I don’t have enough quilts (yet) to be able to rotate my quilts so I must admit that I don’t practice what I preach but hopefully one day …

Well, I hope that helps. Treat your quilt carefully and it should reward you with years of use and enjoyment.

Happy Quilting!

More on Hand Quilting: Links and Designs

As mentioned in my last post, if you are able to watch someone hand quilt, I believe this is the easiest way to acquire the necessary skills and techniques to begin hand quilting. However, this isn't always possible, and the next best thing is loads of determination and reading the excellent articles and books that have been written. Here are some links to articles on hand quilting that you might find useful:

Perfect Your Hand Quilting Stitch

Hand Quilting 101

Quilting "How To" Class

Hand Quilting Techniques

How to Hand Quilt

Hand Quilting

One tip I failed to mention in my last post is to begin quilting in the centre of the quilt and and then work outwards. I was taught that this prevents puckers and I have no reason to doubt this.

Quilting Designs
There are many types of quilting designs just as there are many types of quilts. For ease I'll divide mine into three groups: outline, all-over designs, and ornamental designs.

Outline Quilting
Is as simple as it sounds. You quilt next to the existing patchwork shape alongside the seam ("in-the-ditch") or approximately 1/4" away from the shape. An extension of outline quilting is to quilt 1/4" away from the shape, then quilt 1/4" from this line of quilting, until the whole background is quilted in this way. This is known as "echo quilting".

Examples of outline quilting:





All-Over Designs
These can take the shape of lines (such as straight lines or grid patterns) or all-over curved designs (such as overlapping circles or half circles). They can be used over the top of the patchwork pieces with total disregard for the design made by the patchwork (ie. the quilting doesn't follow the lines of the patchwork) or they can be used to fill in large areas of background.


All-over grid design to fill in background.


Diagonal lines used as all-over design.

Ornamental Designs
These can be whatever takes your fancy! Hearts, feathers, wreaths, birds, flowers, abstract designs: whatever you can dream up and translate onto cloth can be used. Quilting shops sell quilting stencils that can be used to mark the designs onto your fabric but it's easy enough to make your own using plastic or card.

Transferring the Design
I've used different methods to transfer a design to fabric and my least favourite is using any kind of pencil (I found the lines hard to remove even though the pencil I used was sold specifically for that purpose); whilst my favourite would be to use a washable blue marker sold as a quilting pen. Check first on a scrap piece of fabric and always rinse off with cold water. There are other methods such as using a needle to punch around the design or marking the line with chalk or a sliver of soap but I've found the washable pen gives the finest line, avoids eye strain, and can be easily removed.

Happy Quilting!